Ngokuhlala isikhashana ngokunambitha, i-Umbria Ingenye yezindawo ezihamba phambili, ngoba kumakhilomitha ambalwa igxilisa izindawo ezivumelaniswe nokudala, amadolobha asendulo namadolobha ayishumi "ahamba kancane", amathathu awo nawo. Idolobha lewayini. Iqala enkabeni ye-Orvieto, nesonto layo lombhishobhi lamaGoth elimangalisayo, i-San Patrizio's Well, eyakhiwa ngekhulu le-2.500, kanye neDolobha Elingaphansi Komhlaba, inethiwekhi eyinkimbinkimbi yemigudu, izindawo ezingaphansi komhlaba kanye nemigede eqoshwe eminyakeni engu-XNUMX yomlando. Futhi ekupheleni kosuku sima ku Losanda palazzone, isakhiwo esihle kakhulu esakhelwe ukuhlalisa abahambi abaya eRoma ngeJubili Lokuqala ngo-1300. Sizungezwe izivini, singe Umndeni wakwaDubini, ekhiqiza iwayini elithakazelisa kakhulu le-appellation.
Ekuseni, iphrofayili ka-Orvieto imisiwe ogwini olunikeza izithombe zothando, kodwa ngaphezu kwazo zonke izimo ezifanele ukukhiqiza. enye ye-rotato engcono kakhulu e-Italy. Udumo lwayo njengedolobha lewayini lusukela kulo umpe omnandi, owake wabhekwa njengokuqhathaniswa neFrench Sauternes, kanti manje ukukhiqizwa kwawo kwehlile ngokuvuna okumhlophe omile okwenziwe ngamagilebhisi wendawo. I-procanico, i-verdello, i-malvasia, i-grechetto, i-monsoonico ne-drupeggio, ngaphambili yayixutshwe esivinini futhi yavuna konke ndawonye. Giovanni dubini udale kabusha lezi zimo "zokuziphatha okuxekethile" engxenyeni encane yesivini, ukuze akhiqize i-Musco yakhe (nakuba iwayini elidume kakhulu le-Palazzone lihlala li-Orvieto Classico Superiore Campo del Guardiano, elimhlophe elihle kakhulu elidala elinama-truffles e-strangozzi, i-pasta epholile, engenaqanda ejwayelekile lapha).
Umndeni wakwaDubini, abanikazi bendawo yokwenza iwayini kanye ne-Locanda Palazzone relay. Isithombe ngu-Jacopo Salvi
"Ngokomlando, u-Orvieto ubilile ezitsheni ezingaphansi kwewa," usitshela uPaolo Nardo, umenzi wewayini. IBigi, inkampani eyasungulwa ngo-1880. “Lapho kubanda, ukuvutshelwa kuyayeka futhi kuzalwa iwayini elimnandi nelicwebezelayo; sisawukhiqiza nanamuhla, ngokuhlonipha isiko. Ivamise ukuphuzwa ngesinkwa nobhekeni, kodwa futhi kulula ukunambitha nezitsha ezibabayo ze-Indian and Asian cuisine ”. Esikhundleni salokho, i-Vigneto Torricella ibizwa ngokuthi i-Orvieto Classico di Bigi ejabulisayo nekhangayo, futhi ngenxa yobudlelwano obunenzuzo phakathi kobuhle nenani eliphansi.
UPaolo Nardo, umenzi wewayini endaweni yewayini iBigi. Isithombe ngu-Jacopo Salvi
Nokubomvu? Iwayini lokuqala le-Umbrian ukuthola i-Doc, ngo-1968, kwaba lelo likaTorgiano, futhi ngowokuqala ukuthola i-Docg ngo-1990 yenguqulo ye-Riserva. Uyayikhiqiza umndeni wakwaLungarotti kungokwabo I-Rubesco Riserva Vigna Monticchio 2016 wathweswa umqhele okubomvu okuhle kakhulu e-Italy kwango-2021. Ukuvakasha futhi kuyithuba lokujabulela ukungenisa izihambi kwe-Relais Le Tre Vaselle futhi uvakashele iminyuziyamu yewayini namafutha ezalwe ngenxa yothando luka-Maria Grazia Marchetti, isazi-mlando sezobuciko kanye nonkosikazi kaGiorgio Lungarotti. Omunye umuntu omkhulu wewayini le-Umbrian, u-Arnaldo Caprai, unesibopho sodumo lukaSagrantino, inhloko-dolobha yakhe iMontefalco. Amahektha ayisishiyagalombili okuqala athengwa ngo-1971 futhi namuhla inkampani igubha isigamu sekhulu leminyaka yokuphila, ngamahektha angu-150, okuhlanganisa nensimu ye-oliva kanye nensimu yebhali. Indawo yokwamukela izivakashi isezingeni eliphezulu, njengoba kufika izivakashi ezingaba ngu-35.000 minyaka yonke. UMarco Caprai, indodana ka-Arnaldo, wagqugquzelwa uhambo oluya eNapa Valley ngasekupheleni kwawo-1980 ukuze enze imodeli yokungenisa izihambi okwesibili kokunye e-United States. “Futhi futhi sinendaba,” wangitshela, ekhomba umgwaqo omncane esigodini saseSpoletana, esinqamula eSaint-François d'Assise. Ubuhle beCaprai ukuthi abagcinanga ngokudala uhlobo lwewayini oludumile emhlabeni wonke kodwa futhi bazinikele endaweni, babamba iqhaza ekwakhiweni kweStrada del Sagrantino kanye nokutshala imali kumaphrojekthi afana neMerabirra, ekhiqizwa nge-barley malt etshalwe endaweni. Iseluleko sikaMarco sempelasonto esifundeni? "Ukuvakashela eMuseum Complex yaseSan Francesco di Montefalco, ukunambitha egumbini elingaphansi kanye nezitsha ezinhle zasendaweni ozonambitha e-L'Alchimista di Montefalco nase-Antiche Sere e-Bevagna."
Impumelelo oyifakile iSagrantino Ngama-90s, yaletha abakhiqizi abavela kwezinye izifunda e-Umbria: i-Cecchi yavulwa ngo-2000 Tenuta Alzatura, namuhla eholwa u-Alessandro Mariani, ovumayo: “NgeSagrantino azikho izilinganiso eziyingxenye, siyamthanda noma siyamzonda; iwuhlobo lwamagilebhisi acebe kakhulu kuma-polyphenols futhi kufanele wazi ukuthi ungawaphatha kanjani, ngoba anikeza impilo ende kodwa futhi anesibopho sama-tannins, abaningi abangawazisi ”.
U-Alessandro Mariani, umqondisi weTenuta Alzatura. Isithombe ngu-Jacopo Salvi
Lesi sifunda siphinde sinikeze abamhlophe abathokozisayo, njengoba kufakazelwa yingane esanda kuzalwa, iMontefalco Bianco Cortili 2020, iSpoleto Trebbiano enenani elincane le-chardonnay, entsha namaminerali. i Umndeni wakwaLunelli, umkhiqizi wamawayini acwebezelayo e-Ferrari, wathenga i-Tenuta Castelbuono ngo-2001. Indawo yokukhiqiza iwayini, eyakhiwa u-Arnaldo Pomodoro futhi yabizwa ngokuthi i-Carapace, ngenxa yokuthi ukuma kwayo kufana negobolondo likafudu, isivele ilufanele uhambo ngokwalo, ikakhulukazi ekwindla, lapho amaqabunga. imivini ezungezile iyakhanyiswa futhi imigqa yeSagrantino ibukeka njengemigqa emide ebomvu. Sikuvakashela enkampanini ye UMarcello lunelli ositshela ukuthi iSagrantino yazalwa kanjani njengewayini lamagilebhisi esiliphuza ngePhasika newundlu: “Ngizamile, ngumshado osebenzayo, kanye nalowo I-Trentingrana ezifundeni zami kanye nogwayi omuhle ekupheleni kokudla ”.
I-Tenuta Castelbuono, eklanywe ngu-Arnaldo Pomodoro futhi ephethwe umndeni wakwaLunelli. Isithombe ngu-Jacopo Salvi
Uhambo luphetha ngomunye ukunambitheka kwesifunda okuhle kakhulu: this is thei-petroleum, ekhiqizwa kulo lonke elase-Umbria ngezinhlobonhlobo i-leccino, i-frantoio, i-moraiolo kanye namaphesenti amancane e-San Felice, i-rajo ne-sweet agogia. Njengoba enamakha aqinile kanye ne-flavour enamandla, ijatshulelwa kangcono nge-bruschetta, inyama eyosiwe, namasobho e-legume. Ikakhulukazi ekwindla, lapho izigayo zikawoyela zisebenza ngokugcwele futhi uwoyela we-olive we-extra virgin uthakazelisa ngombala wawo oluhlaza ogqamile kanye nokunambitheka okubabayo.
Ukubuka kwesikhungo somlando se-Orvieto. Isithombe ngu-Jacopo Salvi
Esikuphuzile
I-Orvieto Classico Superiore Campo del Guardiano Palazzone (18 euros, palazzone.com) - Orvieto Classico Dry Torricella Bigi Vineyard (5,95 euros, gruppoitalianovini.it) - Montefalco Sagrantino Collepiano Arnaldo Caprai (26dos Alcaptaino Alcorai) 26 euros, Tenuta-alzatura.it) - Montefalco Sagrantino Passito Tenuta Castelbuono (25 euros, tenutelunelli.it)
Isithombe ngu-Jacopo Salvi
