Yeqela kokuqukethwe

U-Ciccio Sultano, umpheki opheka imibuso yaseSicily

Akukho lutho olushodayo ekuphekeni kuka-Ciccio Sultano, owamukela iSicily futhi wayitshela ngentshiseko nenhlonipho, ekwazisa amandla ayo nobuthakathaka, futhi enikeza umuzwa wangempela wezinzwa kwabadla bakhe ngokubenza bahambe kuqala ngesikhathi bese bebuyela esikhathini samanje.

Konke ngaphandle kwemenyu endala, okungukuthi Ciccio Sultano okunikezwayo UDuomo, indawo yokudlela enezinkanyezi ezimbili ze-Michelin e-Ragusa. Ngisho noma kuyimenyu etshela okwedlule kwe-Sicily kanye nengxenye yomlando wayo. I-Sicilian Dominations (lelo yigama lemenyu) umdanso weqiniso ophefumulelwe, ezinyathelweni zawo kanye nomculo wawo, ngamakhulu eminyaka omlando kanye nokubusa okwenze iSicily yaba izwe eliyingqayizivele kokubili ngokwesiko, i-gastronomy newayini. Lapha, kuleli zwe eliphikisanayo, abantu abahlukahlukene babeka unyawo, njalo bekhangwa ukuvunda kwenhlabathi, ubuhle bemvelo, indawo yayo yamasu eMedithera. Lapha banikela kakhulu (baphinde bathatha), kodwa cishe konke lokhu okuhlangenwe nakho okwenza isiqhingi sibe yindawo enomlingo kunoma ubani namuhla ofuna ukujabulela ngokugcwele uhlobo lobuhle olungavamile, olubuye luboniswe etafuleni. . . Indawo yokucima ukoma, izindawo zokudlela, amakhishi omndeni, zonke zigcina izindlela zokupheka ezindala nezibuye zavakashelwa, okungenzeka ukuthi zilahlekelwe isimilo sazo, kodwa okusalokhu kuyinsakavukela yokunambitheka okuyingqayizivele emhlabeni: “Okuxakayo kumasiko amaningi yizinto zansuku zonke. njengokubabayo noma okubabayo, okumnandi, okusawoti konke ndawonye, ​​inhlanganisela yezinongo,” kusho umpheki, owayesendaweni yakhe yokudlela u-Duomo wayefuna ukunikezela yonke imenyu ye-gastronomic zokupheka ezicwile emlandweni.

Imivubukulo Culinary njengoba emisha

Iresiphi ngayinye ikhuluma ngenkathi ethile, ukubusa, abantu abadlula noma abazinza lapha, impucuko eyafika nezinongo, imifino, amasimu okulima, okusanhlamvu, ukuthola indawo evundile yanoma ikuphi ukudla, ubuciko noma isiko le-gastronomic.: “Inani elimangalisayo kwabantu bakwamanye amazwe abathi, ngokuyibusa, bacebise ifa lamasiko nelokudla lamaSiciliya. Ukubusa futhi kusho amafa, hhayi nje ukuhambisa. I-Dominazioni idwebela inkumbulo yesikhathi esizayo imephu yezinongo zase-Sicily, inhlanganisela ye-cuisine ene-Mediterranean njengendawo yayo yokuzalwa kanye neMpumalanga Ephakathi, i-Europe ne-Afrika njengendawo yayo yokukhanya, konke okunokubukwa kolwandle oluzungezwe umhlaba. Ulwandle olusondelayo futhi olungahlukani, ngoba ukupheka, njengomdlalo, akunanzondo.” Kunjengokungathi u-Ciccio Sultano wayefunde uhlobo oluthile lwemivubukulo yezokupheka futhi wayihumushela etafuleni lokudlela. Kuye, noma kunjalo, akukho okusha okungabheki ngokuqondile esikhathini esedlule futhi kuyakwazisa, yizinhlangothi ezimbili zemali efanayo, ezixoxisana futhi zishintshisane ngolwazi nama-flavour. “Omunye uwumphumela womunye kanti isiko limele ukusungulwa kwayizolo. Awukwazi ukuya phambili ngaphandle kokubheka emuva. Endaweni enezimpilo eziningi, impucuko kanye nezithako, esiqhingini seziqhingi ezinjengeSicily, okuwukuphela kwesidlo esivikelekile okufanele silwelwe ukudla okubuyisela isiko nsuku zonke. ”

Imenyu ephenya imibuso yaseSicily

Ezitsheni ezikumenyu, izindlela zokupheka eziye zaba yisakhiwo sodumo njenge I-mullet ebomvu, ephefumulelwe iresiphi ka-Apicius futhi enikezelwe ekubuseni kwamaRoma, uSultano akuchaza kanje: “Ngaqala ngesoso, etholakala ngokukhipha ujusi wenhlanzi, i-quintessence yayo, ngengeza isilimo esidliwayo esinamagatsha anamanzi, amafutha, isoso elincane le-anchovy esikhumbuza i-garum edumile. Inothi elibabayo nelimnandi, elaziswa izivakashi ze-Apicius, linikezwa imbewu ye-coriander newayini le-passito.” Kusukela ekuphefumulweni kuya ekuphefumulweni, siza ku Ukushayela akuhambi, okuwukuhunyushwa kabusha kwesinkwa esivamile samaRagusan esigxishiwe sesiko lamaJuda, “uhlobo lwesinkwa esingenamvubelo, esibekwe sibheke phezulu kusoso katamatisi esicashe ngaphakathi kukhilimu we-basil nokhilimu weRagusan. Isitsha siqedwa ngengcosana ye-focaccia futhi, ukuze kuqabuleke, ijeli katamatisi ne-mozzarella mousse yenyathi.” Kunikezelwe kuma-Angevins nase-Aragonese, abaphikisi eMbusweni waseSicily, ngokuphambene nalokho Umlenze wejuba nebele eline-fricassee: “Kuma-Angevin nama-Aragonese, ompetha bokuzingela nokuqwala izintaba, ngacabanga ngejuba, elaziswa kakhulu ngenyama yalo ezondile. Ithanga licwebezeliswe isanqante, liphakelwa ngamakhowe nezinongo, amaqabunga acwebile e-sanapastro noma i-sanapo, isitshalo sasendle esivela emndenini ka-anyanisi ohlukanisa izwe laseSicily. Akunakwenzeka ukulahlekelwa I-Leopard timpani, enikezwe inoveli edumile kaGiuseppe Tomasi di Lampedusa kanye nokubusa kwamaBourbons: “Bayi-timpani yezingwe. Isendlalelo ngesendlalelo, izingcezu zesitshalo seqanda ezithosiwe, i-Capitelli ham ephekiwe, ushizi we-Ragusano omusha, i-macaroni eyenziwe ekhaya enongwe nge-Giuseppe Grassi festive meat sauce, ingulube ye-Agostino Ninone Sebastiano, inkukhu ye-Aia yengezwa ekhekheni le-Gaia shortcrust. "Konke kuxutshwe ne-balm enandiswe ne-bourbon vanilla, ilula kakhulu futhi imnandi kune-custard yasekuqaleni." Qeda nge-dessert: «I-Moakaffè emnandi Kuyisipho esiphindwe kabili: ewayinini lama-Arabhu, isiphuzo esijabulisayo okungenzeka sivela eCaffa e-Ethiopia, esesabalele eYurophu emhlabeni wama-Arabhu nama-Ottoman, kanye nasenkampanini yekhofi iMoak, igama lesi-Arabhu lasendulo likaModica, umlingani womlando kaCiccio Sultano. . . Esisekelweni kukhona ukhilimu we-mascarpone, ohlanganiswe ne-cocoa crumble, lapho i-brioche egcwele i-cardamom ice cream ne-ayisikhilimu yekhofi ibekwe khona. Isitsha siphelela etafuleni nge-espresso ye-biofair.”

Ukusimama njengombono wekusasa

Kodwa-ke, ukucwilisa ikhishi lakho emlandweni akusho ukungakwenzi ngombono ocacile wekusasa, yingakho ukukhuluma ngoSultano kuphinde kukhulume ngokusimama. "Ngeke kube nenhlonipho ngendawo ezungezile uma ukuhlonipha abantu nomsebenzi wabo kungaqaliwe ukusetshenziswa. Okusho ukusebenzela ukwethembana, ukuvikela udumo lwakho nolwabanye. Okungenani iminyaka engamashumi amabili, kusukela kwavulwa i-Duomo, i-Sultano iye yakhangwa ngokwemvelo kulabo abazi ubuciko babo ngaphakathi ngaphandle. Isidingo sesinkwa ne-pasta kumakhasimende kanye nokuthengiswa okuqondile kwenzeka nsuku zonke, ngaleyo ndlela kugwenywe ukukhishwa kwe-CO2 okuhlobene nokupakishwa nokuhamba. I Banchi store izikhwama kukhona biodegradable. Ukufakwa kwe-E-commerce kugaywa kabusha ngangokunokwenzeka. Iphepha eliqinisekisiwe le-FSC lisetshenziselwa ukushicilelwa namabhokisi ezipho. “Kusukela ekuqaleni ngangibafuna ngabadidiyeli, ngasungula ubudlelwano bokuthembana, okwagcina sekungumuntu siqu, ngoba umphakeli ovikela udumo lwami nolwekhasimende. Ukwesekwa kwangempela kusekelwe esithunzini sobabili, ngokombono wezomnotho namasiko.” Ku-inthanethi, kukhona idokhumentari emfushane eshuthwe nguMatteo Di Callisto ye-Italia Chef Live lapho uSultano epheka futhi ekhuluma ngaye nangomhlaba omzungezile. Abahlinzeki badlala indima ebalulekile, njengomfuyi ongu-transhumant Giuseppe Grasso, umpetha kasawoti u-Alfio Visalli, umenzi kashizi uCarmelo Cilia kanye, futhi, noPaolo Moltisanti, ongekude ne-Ragusa, ophethe i-“Aia gaia”, ipulazi lezinkukhu eziphilayo. . .

Phequlula igalari

Umbhalo kaRoberta Calamia, uMargo Schachter