E lele i ka papahana

ʻO Champagne Krug 2008 a me Antonino Cannavacciuolo no kahi pāʻina kūikawā

Ua hōʻike ʻia ma Milan ma ke ʻano he poʻokela honua, me Olivier Krug, Antonino Cannavacciuolo a me Vhelade leo leo. He makahiki poina ʻole ʻelua kaukani ʻewalu, akā ua ʻike mākou ua hele mua kahi Champagne hou no ka hale kaulana o Reims.

Ua pau ka kali ʻana, ua hōʻike ʻo Krug i Milan i kāna ʻelua tausani a me ʻewalu hoʻohui e like me ka holomua honua, ka hopena o ka mea i manaʻo ʻia ʻo ka hoʻohui maikaʻi loa o ke kenekulia (no ka manawa) ma Champagne. Olivier krugʻO ke ono o ka hanauna o ka moʻokūʻauhau nāna i hoʻokumu i ka hale o Reims a makemake nui iā Italia, ua hauʻoli nui i ka hoʻi kino ʻana i kēia ʻāina e wehe i kāna mau hue, nā lepili hoʻomana ʻoiaʻiʻo no ka poʻe aloha pua. Ua kamaʻilio ʻo ia e pili ana i ka hōʻiliʻili XNUMX ("weliweli mai kahi hiʻohiʻona o ka ʻike") a hoʻomanaʻo i kāna moeʻuhane. Joseph Krug, ʻo ke kupuna nāna i hana ka hale i ka makahiki 1843: “Ua makemake koʻu kupuna e hana i kahi Champagne maikaʻi loa i kēlā me kēia makahiki, ʻo ia ke kani ʻana me he mea hoʻokani pila nui; akā,ʻaʻole i kūʻokoʻa likeʻole kēlā me kēia mea hoʻohui, e like me ka hikiʻole ke loaʻa i nā mea hoʻokani pila maikaʻi loa; Ma kēia ʻano, hoʻokahi ʻohi ʻana ma hope o kekahi, hoʻomaka ʻo ia e hōʻiliʻili i nā waihona waina nui, i manaʻo ʻia e kōkua i nā mea hoʻohui liʻiliʻi, e hāʻawi i ke ola i kahi Champagne nani mau. «Ua hōʻailona ʻia ka moe a Joseph Krug e ka Grande Cuvèe, aia ma kona papahele 169th. "No mākou ka Champagne koʻikoʻi o ka hale" hoʻomau ʻo Olivier Krug. "Hoʻokumu ʻia kēia paʻi ma ka XNUMX vintage, kahi hoʻohui hou, kahi i hōʻike ʻole ʻia ai nā ʻāpana ikaika o ka orchestra, no laila ua lawelawe lākou i nā waina i mālama ʻia mai nā hoʻohui mua, a hiki i ka makahiki XNUMX."

moeʻuhane 169

ka ʻO Grande Cuvée 169th Aia ʻo di Krug i hoʻokahi haneri a me kanahākūmāono mau waina o ʻumikūmākahi mau hui like ʻole a ua hoʻomaha ʻia i loko o ka hale waihona no kahi o 7 mau makahiki. Aia ka haku mele he kanahākūmākolu% Pinot Noir, kanakolukumamālima% Chardonnay a me iwakāluakūmālua% Pinot Meunier; ʻO nā waina mālama ʻia he XNUMX% o ka hui ʻana. ʻO nā mea ʻala, nā mea ʻaʻole huikau me nā Champagnes maikaʻi loa, ʻōpio mau i kēia lā (ʻike mākou i nā pua o ka vernal meadows, citrus a me nā hua melemele), ua hoʻopaʻa ʻia e ulu i nā ʻala voluptuous o marzipan a me ka pastry cream, nougat, jam tart. . a me ka meli brioche. ʻO ka hoʻāʻo ʻana i ʻoi aku ka hoihoi e nā papa liʻiliʻi i hele mai mai ka lumi kuke, i hana ʻia, e like me ke koena o nā kīʻaha ʻaina awakea, e kekahi o kā mākou mau mea kuke kaulana loa, a me ka ʻelele brand Krug's, he Antonino Cannavacciuolo ma ke ʻano nani, hiki iā ia ke kāhāhā i nā mea a pau me kahi cube o Parmigiana aubergine kahi pahū o ka ʻono hema a me ke kauwela.

Champagne i ke mele

He mea koʻikoʻi loa ke mele no Krug, ʻaʻole wale i ka metaphor o ka orchestra no ka Grande Cuvée. I kēlā me kēia manawa e puka mai ai kahi Champagne hou, aia nō kāna kani kani, e hōʻike ana i kona ʻano ma o ke kani. I kēia makahiki, ua hāʻawi ʻia ka hana o ka "mele" i nā Champagnes hou ʻO Vhelade, ʻōpio, nani a maikaʻi ka unuhi ʻōlelo Afro-Sardinia, ka mea me kona nani a me kona leo pumehana a ikaika hoʻi i hoʻokalakupua i kēlā me kēia o nā malihini (ʻike mākou iā ia i kahi ʻano pop a me ka wiwo ʻole i kēia kauwela kauwela, Uh la la , me Mydrama).

ʻO ka nani kahiko

"He inoa kapakapa kēlā me kēlā me kēia ʻāpana o Krug," wahi a Olivier. "A ina au e hui aku i elua tausani me eono, he mea makemake ia no makou, ua bapetizoia ka elua tausani me ewalu i Na'i Ku'una e ke komite ho'ono o ka hale." Hōʻike ʻia ke ʻano climatic e nā lā wela maikaʻi me nā pō anuanu, ka mea i hoʻohua i ka hua waina nui, a no laila he waina me kahi ʻano hoʻopaʻapaʻa ʻole: ma hope o ka ʻelemakule no ʻumikūmākahi mau makahiki i ka winery, ka cuvée (XNUMX% pinot noir, iwakāluakūmālua. % chardonnay, iwakāluakūmālima% pinot meunier) hou, lōkahi, lōʻihi a hoʻomau a hōʻike maikaʻi loa i ke ʻano a me ka nani o ka wahi Champagne.

Ma waena o nā ʻano ʻano he nui o Krug, ʻo ia hoʻi ke aloha i ka papaʻaina a ʻaʻole hiki ke hoʻōki i ka hoʻāʻo ʻana i nā hui pū me nā kīʻaha Cannavaciuolo. Ma ka papaʻaina, i ka hui o Krug 164, ua hoʻokuʻu hou ʻia ka XNUMXth Grande Cuvée, e pili ana i ka waina mai ka ʻohi XNUMX. bottarga a me ka momona; e hoʻopau ana, no ka ʻai ʻana, raspberry a me horseradish, babà a me ka huelo ula, kahi ʻano liʻiliʻi liʻiliʻi loa o ka sfogliatella Neapolitan, e hoʻomaikaʻi.