Enter to Villa Tiepolo Passi, in Carbonera, in the heart of the Treviso countryside, would delight any fan of the Downton Abbey series. There are the glories of a beautifully frescoed historic residence, the silver services, a family of ancient origins. But without butler or plastered manners: here, the hosts of the house set the table with care and joy and in the kitchen bits of memories and family life are transmitted to us. Last piece of the cookbook, for example, the quinoa meatballs (vegan), for the grandchildren who have been coming from America for a few days. But let's go in order. We are welcomed by Count Alberto Passi de Preposulo, his sunny wife Bárbara and their daughter Gaia who is holding little Beatriz, a few months old, in her arms.
The Passi family represented in one of the villa's frescoed rooms, originally from the XNUMXth century and restored in the XNUMXth century according to the stylistic features of Vincenzo Scamozzi, Palladio's student.
In the dining room, a beautiful oval table awaits us, dressed with an emerald green tablecloth and decorated with a floral decoration signed Ginori, a "wedding gift", Barbara tells us. The references to the territory are as delicate as the Murano flutes and the Bassano ceramic rugs, another passion of the countess. "It's a four-handed table," she explains. "My husband and I argue, yes, but when we come to an agreement, the result is usually good." The look confirms it: the flowery center is spontaneous and sumptuous and leads us directly to the orchard, that is to say, to the agricultural orchard of the Venetian villas for which Palladio is famous. “He affirmed, explains the count, that“ the gardens of the villas are well-ordered fields ”. Playful and decorative gardens spread later ”. The produce from this garden is inspired by dishes from the old family recipe book, displayed alongside bound copies of La Cucina Italiana. “For example, the quince is part of Venice and the villas of it. The first trees arrived in the XNUMXth century from the Middle East.
Villa Passy
The fruits, very aromatic, it is no coincidence that only the paron of the house, the noble, used them: we ate them cooked and we used sugar, which was very expensive. But the Serenissima took care of all its citizens, ”says Alberto. Proof of this are the popular pastas and fasoi with Lamon borlotti, a local variety with a delicate skin, which in the family are served on Treviso chicory leaves. "It's one of our daughter-in-law's favorite dishes," adds Barbara, referring to actress Jessica Chastain, the American wife of her son Gian Luca. The two-time Oscar nominee lives in New York City with her husband and her two children, who follow her mother's vegan diet. The three of them got a taste of Barbara's versatility: “After buying a vegan cookbook, I threw in the towel,” she admits, “and decided to keep things simple by modifying many of our dishes, based on beautiful vegetables from the 'garden'.
Family recipes and old collections of La Cucina Italiana
At Villa Tiepolo Passi, toast with amarone and Friulian wines from Collio. Then there is Fiol (in Veneto it means "son, young man"), an award-winning Prosecco that, explains Gaia, "was born from a project by my brother Gian Luca with friends Giovanni and Pietro Ciani Bassetti, and wine has allowed him to make himself known In New York. «Among the news related to the farm, where to stay, the exchange of agricultural secrets and homemade recipes.» With a group of artists and our cook, I am planning a series of 'reading the fields' experiences, anticipates the Count. In the garden, you cook, do yoga and learn to weave with grass: I would like to call this initiative L'Académie des Champs. It is not so new, in the XNUMXth century there was a vocational school here to educate children in rural work «
Morello cherry pudding
“This pudding is my creation. Many tell me that it reminds them of the flavors of childhood, ”explains Barbara Passi from Preposulo. "My mother-in-law said it was the best she had ever tasted: it was a great compliment to me." Beat 2 egg yolks with 200 g of sugar in a bowl. Gradually add 90 g of cocoa, 4 tablespoons of flour and 750 g of milk, mixing with an electric mixer. Pour the mixture into a nonstick skillet, adding a lemon zest. Cook over medium heat, stirring constantly, until it boils. Continue for about 10 minutes until you get a smooth and creamy consistency. Pour into a mold and let cool completely. Then put it in the fridge. It is recommended to prepare it the day before the service. Serve at will with cherries in syrup and whipped cream. The doses are for 4 to 6 people.
Tacchinella of the Countess
"It was one of my grandmother's favorite dishes," explains Alberto Passi. "An easier substitute than chicken galantine,
Therefore, three days of preparation were necessary, if he allowed it with a certain frequency. That changed with the vegetables from the garden.
And once a year it was also filled with truffles. We serve it with a pickle made with vegetables from our garden ”. Half open a 2 kg turkey breast, crush it and season it with extra virgin olive oil, salt, pepper, sage, thyme and rosemary. Let stand in the refrigerator for about 2 hours. Sauté 100 g of leek pods and 200 g of peppers cut into sticks in a frying pan with a drizzle of oil. Spread the turkey breast, sprinkle with pistachios, place 200 g of sliced bacon, add the leek, peppers and 200 g of canned asparagus (use fresh in season, blanched in salted water). Rouler la viande, l'attacher avec de la ficelle, the pleasure on a plat allant au four avec de l'huile, du romarin et de la sauge et cuire au four à 160 ° C pendant 90 minutes in arrosant de temps en temps de White wine. Once ready, let it cool, cut into medallions and serve with a drizzle of oil, salt flakes and black pepper; complete with gelatin. Doses are for 8 to 10 people.
Photo Giacomo Bretzel.
